匠人精神:当手工艺品成为奢侈品

NEWS

2018-07-30

匠人精神:当手工艺品成为奢侈品

In Europe, skilled craftsmanship is luxury. 

Why not in the rest of the world, too?

巴黎的顶级时装、意大利高级工作室——欧洲人的文化自豪感无不深深根植于其中。这些传统工艺——皮革制品、刺绣、制鞋、制帽、缝纫、玻璃吹制等等——还会被消费者吹捧,并被视作奢侈的象征。

From the famed haute couture of Paris to the treasured ateliers of Italy, craftsmanship in Europe is a deeply embedded cultural point of pride. What’s more, these traditions – leatherwork, embroidery, shoe-making, hat-making, sewing, glassblowing and the like – are largely revered by consumers as telltale signs of luxury.


对于Gucci、Berlutti、爱马仕、香奈儿等品牌来说,其市场的核心竞争力就是代代相传的手工技艺,这也是他们的主打特点。在诸如L’Ecole Metiers d’Art举办的各类工艺会展上,工匠们会越来越多地与消费者们接触——消费者们愈发重视工艺品的历史性以及真实性,这种接触有助于建立消费者们对于工艺品的忠诚度。

Heritage techniques are front and centre in marketing campaigns for Gucci, Berlutti, Hermes, Chanel, among others. Artisans themselves are increasingly introduced to consumers at craft festivals such as L’Ecole Metiers d’Art with the understanding that this exposure to craft builds loyalty with consumers who increasingly value history and authenticity.


不仅如此,尽管这些品牌都处于极具竞争性的市场环境中,它们仍旧会投入大笔资金,培养下一代工匠。他们深知,最为重要的商业秘密,就是这些通过日积月累、千锤百炼方能造就的手工技艺。

And what’s more, these brands, in a competitive retail environment, continue to invest money in training the next generation of craftspeople, understanding that these hard-earned skills of are among their most important trade secrets.


但现实并不总是美好的。如今,快节奏、机械化的时尚产业以及家居设计为欧洲的手工艺传统带来了巨大的挑战。手工制造、工厂出产之间既有冲突,也会互相融合——我们只需要看一看最新的T台走秀,就不难发现,二者早已存在于行业的前端以及公众的意识中。

Not to paint an overly rosy picture, even the craft traditions of Europe are suffering in the face of an increasingly fast-paced and mechanized industry for fashion and home design. The clashing and melding of handmade and factory-produced needs only to look to fashion’s latest runways to find confirmation that these forces are lodged in the forefront of industry and public consciousness.


世界的其他地方情况如何?

Meanwhile, on the other side of the world


现在,让我们想象这样一个画面:我们坐飞机来到了印度尼西亚的万隆。我们花了四个小时在路上,火车像快散架了一样。终于,我们来到了井里汶(Cirebon)。在这里,我们能见到蜡染工艺。这一工艺可以追溯到成百上千年前。毫无疑问,手工蜡染印花的工艺是代代传承下来的。这种工艺极其精细,难度极高,需要注重每一个细节,工匠还必须极具耐心。最为精致的蜡染作品需要长达七个月之久才能完成。

Now let’s imagine we’re hopping on a flight from Paris to Bandung, Indonesia. We take a four-hour rickety train ride to the coastal town of Cirebon. What we might find here is a hotbed of batik textile craft, a technique that dates back hundreds of thousands of years. The art of applying batik’s wax motifs via hand stamps and cantering is undeniably a skill that must be taught and learned. It is a meticulous and difficult art, requiring attention to detail and patience. The most elaborate batik textiles can take as long as seven months to produce from start to finish.


或者,我们的飞机会飞往印度的瓦拉纳西。在这里,手织丝绸已经有五百年的历史了。这成为了当地人民文化自豪感的来源,更是当地一代代居民赖以生计的工艺。人们要花上很多年才能精通织布机的使用。用于描绘手织丝绸上精美图案的穿孔卡叠起来甚至都有数英尺之高。这是一门艺术,能拥有这样的织物是极为奢华的。

Or let’s say our plane was destined for Varanasi, India. Here, the 500-year-old handloom silk-weaving technique has been a source of cultural pride and livelihood passed down through generations. The skills of working a loom require years to perfect. The punch cards, which depict a handloomed textile’s elaborate motifs, can themselves be several feet high. This is an art, and to be a proud owner of one of these textiles is a luxury.


这只是总价值约340亿美元的手工艺品出口的冰山一角。在全球市场中,有数百万这样的手工匠人。他们技艺精湛,甚至能够媲美欧洲的大师。

These small examples only scratch the surface of the $34 billion industry for artisan exports. This global market employs millions of artisans whose skills are most certainly on a par with those of the masters of Europe.

那么,这些手工艺者到底有何不同之处呢?为何他们很少能获得投资?为何他们的作品想要登上国际贸易会展和当代的T台秀竟如此之难?为何这样的作品不能卖出应有的价格、总是在国际市场中被低估呢?为何这些极具天赋的工匠竟不为人知?是谁支撑着全球的手工艺者以及手工艺传统踽踽前行?

So what is different for these artisans? Why do they see so little investment? Why is their craft hard to find at international trade shows and on contemporary runways? Why is this work underpaid and undervalued in the international marketplace? And why are these talented workers given little to no visibility? Who is supporting the global community of artisans and the craft traditions they carry forth?


Nest是一个非营利性的组织,致力于提升工艺水平。当我在十多年前创立Nest时,“工匠”这个词并不会像今天这样产生如此之高的市场热度。即使是在今天,手工艺似乎仍被低估。如果我们想向他们表达应有的尊敬,并重新定义手工艺者应有的模样,我们该如何称呼他们?

When I founded Nest more than 10 years ago, a non-profit organization committed to advancing this craftsmanship, the word “artisan” did not generate the level of marketing buzz it seems to today. It still seems to be undervalued. What can we call these people, what can we name them, to show them the respect they deserve and to redefine misperceptions of what global craftsmanship looks like?


我们的团队一直致力于解决这些问题。我们努力拓宽人们对于手工艺者的理解——此前,人们会有选择性的给工艺品赋予价值,还会偏好特定地区的工艺品。我们想要重塑行业以及公众对于“全球手工艺者”的观念,我们想让人们了解,这些手工艺者的技艺并不比欧洲奢侈品牌光鲜亮丽的广告中的御用工匠们差。

These are questions that my team grapples with all the time. We are working to expand a narrow view of artisans, one that bestows value in a selective way and favours certain geographies above others. We are committed to recasting the industry and public perception of “global artisan” to be on a par with the skilled craftspeople we see in the glossy ad campaigns for Europe’s most coveted luxury brands.


Nest为观念的转变提供了平台,我们将会完成这一转变。我们希望能够得到奢侈品牌的支持,为世界各个角落的手工艺者同行们提供各种帮助。

As much as Nest can be a platform for this transformation of perception, we will do so. And we hope to have the support of the luxury brands themselves in lifting up their fellow craftspeople in all corners of the world.


www.saintvarious.com

第一工匠艺术文化企业

L'Artisanat Première entreprise de France

  • 联系我们

    联系电话:+86 591 8780 5736
    联系地址:福州市鼓楼区五四路89号置地广场19层

  • 关注我们

  • 扫一扫关注微信公众号

扫一扫微信公众平台